There’s a moment of truth for every shooter, whether you’re a seasoned hunter or new to the rifle range. You take a careful aim, squeeze the trigger, and your shot lands nowhere near where you intended. This common frustration almost always points to one essential task that hasn’t been completed: zeroing your scope. A rifle scope that isn’t zeroed is just a fancy tube, but a properly zeroed one is your key to consistent, accurate shooting.
While the process might seem intimidating at first, it’s a fundamental skill that anyone can master. This guide is designed to demystify the entire procedure. By following the steps outlined in this How To Zero A Scope In Easy And Quick Way [2025 Best Guide], you’ll gain the confidence to get your rifle and scope speaking the same language, ensuring your crosshairs point exactly where your bullet will land.
Gathering Your Gear and Setting the Stage
Before you fire a single shot, a little preparation goes a long way in making the process smooth and efficient. First, you’ll need a stable shooting platform. A solid bench rest with sandbags or a bipod is ideal, as it removes as much human error as possible. You’ll also need your unloaded rifle and scope, the correct tools for mounting the scope (like hex keys or a screwdriver), a boresighter (optional but very helpful), plenty of ammunition, and of course, eye and ear protection. Finally, you need a safe place to shoot with a clearly visible target set at a specific distance.
Speaking of distance, choosing your zeroing range is a critical first decision. A 25-yard zero is a fantastic starting point for many rifles, especially if you’re at a smaller range. The benefit is that the bullet’s path at 25 yards will often correlate closely to a much longer range, like 100 yards, for common cartridges. This allows you to get on paper quickly with minimal adjustment. For this guide, we’ll focus on establishing a 25-yard zero as the first step.
The Step-by-Step Process: How To Zero A Scope In Easy And Quick Way [2025 Best Guide]
With your gear ready and your target set at 25 yards, you’re ready to begin the core process. Let’s break it down into simple, manageable steps.
First, ensure your rifle is completely unloaded and the barrel is pointed in a safe direction. Mount your scope securely according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have a magnetic boresighter, you can insert it into the muzzle end. Look through your bore (from the breech end) and adjust the rifle until the boresighter’s target is centered in the barrel. Without moving the rifle, look through your scope and adjust the windage and elevation knobs until the crosshairs are also centered on that same target. This gets you “on paper” before you even fire a shot.
If you don’t have a boresighter, don’t worry. You can use a similar manual method. Remove the bolt from your rifle (if it’s a bolt-action) and look directly down the bore from the chamber end. Carefully adjust the rifle until you see your target centered in the barrel. Then, without moving the rifle, adjust the scope’s crosshairs to align with that same target. It takes a bit of practice, but it’s very effective.
Making Those Crucial Adjustments
Now it’s time to fire your first group. Using your stable rest, take careful aim at the bullseye of your target and fire a three-shot group. The goal here is consistency, so take your time between shots. After three shots, safely go downrange and look at where your group landed.
Here’s where you “read” the target. Let’s say your three-shot group is six inches low and four inches to the left of the bullseye. Now, look at the adjustment knobs on your scope. The top knob, marked “Up” and “Down,” controls elevation. The side knob, marked “L” and “R” (for Left and Right), controls windage. Most scopes adjust in increments called “Minutes of Angle” or MOA. At 100 yards, 1 MOA is about 1 inch, but at 25 yards, it’s roughly a quarter of an inch.
To correct for being six inches low at 25 yards, you would need to come up a significant amount. Since 1 MOA = 0.25 inches at 25 yards, you’d need to turn the elevation knob in the “Up” direction by 24 clicks (because 6 inches / 0.25 inches per click = 24 clicks). Similarly, to move four inches to the right, you’d turn the windage knob “Right” by 16 clicks (4 inches / 0.25 inches per click). Fire another three-shot group after making these adjustments. Your group should now be much closer to the center.
Finalizing Your Zero and Confirming at Distance
Repeat the process of shooting a small group and making fine adjustments until your point of aim and point of impact are the same at 25 yards. Once you have a perfect 25-yard zero, you can consider your rifle “on paper” and ready for a final confirmation at a longer distance, if your range permits.
Move your target out to 100 yards. Fire another careful three-shot group. With many common rifle calibers, a 25-yard zero will result in the bullet impacting very close to the point of aim at 100 yards. If you need to make a minor tweak at 100 yards, the process is the same, but remember that each click of your MOA knob will now move the point of impact by approximately one inch. Make small adjustments, shoot another group, and you’re done.
You’re Ready for Confident Shooting
Zeroing a scope is a simple process of mechanical adjustment, not magic. By starting at a close range, using a stable rest, and making careful, calculated adjustments, you can efficiently align your scope with your rifle’s natural point of impact. Remember to always record your final settings in a logbook, and check your zero periodically, especially before an important hunt or competition. With your scope properly zeroed, you can step up to the firing line with the confidence that when you place the crosshairs on your target, that’s exactly where your shot will land.